Step 1 Pentalobe Screws


Opening the iPhone’s display will compromise its waterproof seals. Take extra care not to expose your iPhone to liquid damage after completing your repair.
Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Step 2 iOpener Heating


We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.
Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.
Step 3


Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.
Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.
If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.
Step 4


Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.
Step 5 Opening Procedure


Lay the warm iOpener over the lower edge of the phone to soften the adhesive holding the display in place.
Wait for about a minute, allowing the adhesive to warm up before proceeding to the next step.
Step 6


Attach a suction cup to the lower half of the display assembly, just above the home button.
Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
Step 7


Pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.
Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong, and creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you’re having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.
Step 8


Slide the spudger to the left along the lower edge of the iPhone.
Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display and rear case.
Step 9


Slide the spudger up the left side of the iPhone, starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch.
Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.
Step 10


Remove the spudger from the left side of the iPhone and insert the flat edge into the bottom right corner of the device.
Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the display assembly and the rear case.
Slide the flat end of the spudger up the right side of the phone to break up the adhesive holding the display in place.
Step 11


Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.
Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.
Step 12


Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
Step 13


Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the iPhone, between the rear case and front panel, to break up the remaining adhesive holding the screen in place.
Step 14


Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.
Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don’t try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone’s logic board.
At this point you may lay the phone down on a flat surface like an open book.
Step 15 Battery Disconnection


Remove the following tri-point Y000 screws from the lower connector bracket:
Three 1.2 mm screws
One 2.4 mm screw
Remove the bracket.
Step 16


Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.
Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.
Step 17 Display Assembly


Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.
To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
Step 18


Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.
Remove the bracket.
Step 19


Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.
This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.
Step 20


Remove the display assembly.
Step 21 Barometric Vent


Remove the two 1.9 mm Phillips screws securing the barometric vent to the rear case.
Step 22


Remove the vent.
Step 23 Taptic Engine


Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine connector from its socket on the logic board.
Step 24


Remove the three 1.6 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine to the rear case.
Step 25


Remove the Taptic Engine.
Step 26 Battery


Use a pair of tweezers to peel back one of the adhesive strips on the lower edge of the battery.
Step 27


Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the other adhesive strip on the lower edge of the battery.
Step 28


If this is your first time removing an iPhone battery adhesive strip, refer to the video in the following step before beginning.
Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.
Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.
Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.
The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.
Step 29


Repeat the previous step for the second strip.
Hold down the battery as you remove the second strip, or the strip may fling the battery when it separates from the case.
If you removed both adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.
Otherwise, if either of the adhesive strips broke off underneath the battery and could not be retrieved, continue with the next step below.
Step 30


If you successfully removed both adhesive strips, move on to the next step. Otherwise, you will need to pry the battery from the rear case.
Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the back of the rear case, directly over the battery. Alternatively, you can apply heat using a heat gun or hair dryer.
After about a minute, remove the iOpener, flip the phone over and use a plastic card to break up any remaining adhesive behind the battery.
Do not insert the card from the right, as prying against the logic board can damage it. Also, be sure to not bend the battery, as doing so can puncture the cell and release dangerous chemicals.
Don’t pry under the topmost section of the battery, near the volume up button and mute switch, or you may damage the volume controls ribbon cable, which is adhered to the rear case just beneath the battery.
Step 31


Remove the battery from the rear case.
When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery’s adhesive strips.
Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

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